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Acne Prone Skin - The Symptoms, Causes and The Treatments!


Today I thought we'd touch on acne-prone and/or congested skin. I experienced this quite bad when I was younger but was able to resolve through research and consistent use of a core routine, in addition to actives/acids that also assisted. So I thought I share some info/tips that might help. 

Acne occurs when a pore/hair follicle becomes clogged with dead skin cells, natural oils, and a specific type of bacteria. These bacteria live on the skin naturally and are called Propionibacterium Acnes. If they enter and infect clogged pores which cause acne to appear in various forms. Any skin type (dry, combo, oily) can be affected by this. The natural reaction is to attempt to strip these oils. Unfortunately by doing this it causes the skin to compensate for this by producing more oil, causing a bit of a cycle. The goal is to remove the buildup and congestion without stripping the skins natural oils.
Most minor acne blemishes respond to otc medications and medications. However, people with more severe/long-term acne should consult with a dermatologist, or your doctor. Personally I don’t believe people should attempt to pop acne blemishes themselves (leave this for the professionals). Doing so can lead to complications like dark spots, scarring,  pitting, nodules or cysts.

The most common types of issues associated with acne whiteheads, blackheads, pustules (usually called pimples), papules, nodules and cysts and nodules. Each type requires a slightly varied treatment which is why it’s good to get on to it quite quickly as this can reduce the risk of long-term skin complications, such as dark spots/scarring. Acne blemishes fall into two categories, depending on whether or not they cause inflammation of the surrounding skin.

In cases of minor-to-moderate acne, a person will generally have to use home and over-the-counter remedies consistently for 4-6 weeks before results are seen.

Non-inflammatory Acne: Whiteheads and blackheads are types of noninflammatory acne lesions. 
Whiteheads - are the least severe forms of acne. They’re small, whitish/flesh colored spots or bumps that usually have a white center surrounded by a red halo. The skin around a whitehead may appear to be tight, especially when the whitehead is large/raised. They don't usually cause scarring.
Blackheads - are small, black/dark coloured spots that may appear as slightly raised bumps on the skin. The skin around usually appears normal, while the center is darker. The colour is a result of trapped dirt/oil oxidizing when exposed to air. Blackheads are similar to whiteheads but have opened and widened. 
Many otc products can treat non-inflammatory acne. They often contain a mix of active ingredients to help to break down whiteheads/blackheads:
- BHA’s
- Sulfur
- Resorcinol
- Benzoyl peroxide

Inflammatory Acne: Includes papules, pustules, nodules and cysts. This type is more severe, and unfortunately is more likely to cause scarring/pitting. Common symptoms are red, swollen, and warm to the touch.
Depending on the severity these could be minor to more severe forms. Some examples of minor - mild forms are:
- Papules - bumps under the skin's surface. They’re usually solid, tender, pink, raised, and the skin around is usually slightly swollen/red. They have no visible center and the pores do not appear to be widened as occurs with white/blackheads. They occur when whiteheads/blackheads cause irritation so much it damages the surrounding skin leading to inflammation.
- Pustules - usually look like much larger and more inflamed whiteheads with a circular center which is filled with whitish/yellowish pus, and has a pink/red bottom (Immune and bacterial cells collect to form this pus).

The below tips can help these types:
- Washing the affected area with cool water and neutral PH cleanser (or even 1 that’s more acidic as this helps balance the excess bacteria on the skin) using clean hands twice a day.
- Applying a warm compress/cloth to the affected area for 10–15 mins to encourage trapped debris to rise to the surface
- Products with benzoyl peroxide to help combat the bacteria
- BHA focused products salicylic acid or it’s derivatives to remove dead skin cells and other debris.

More Moderate - Severe Forms Are:
Nodules - These are hard, painful, inflamed lumps deep within the skin. These occur when clogged pores damage tissue and cells deep beneath the skin's surface. They look like larger papules and have no visible center or head. These are a severe form of acne that can cause skin complications like dark spots or scarring.
Cysts - are large, soft, red or white lumps situated deep in the skin. They form deeper within the skin than nodules. Cysts can also cause skin complications, such as scarring.
Fungal Acne - is caused by an overgrowth of yeast that's naturally present in the hair follicles. It usually develops in small, scattered, itchy, follicular papules, usually on the back, chest, posterior arms, and neck, which slowly enlarge and become pustular.

These particular conditions require care from a dermatologist or doctor. Some various products/procedures can treat nodules and cysts. Some examples:
- Antibiotics  (Eg.  amoxicillin, tetracycline, doxycycline, and topical corticosteroids
- Oral contraceptives for hormonal-related acne_
- Retinoids, such as isotretinoin
- Mesotherapy/ Skin Boosters
- Steroid injections
- Chemical peels
- Photodynamic therapy to combat bacteria
- Drainage/extraction (For more large cysts)

Severe Inflammatory Acne:
It tends to take much longer to clear up. But with consistency you will get there. Having a core routine to support your skin consisting of a basic cleanse, moisturise, sunscreen in the day and double cleanse in the evening will help regulate your skin enzymes, bacteria and oil production functions. 
Some other things that can help to reduce most minor-to-mild forms of non-inflammatory acne are:
Reducing stress (where possible)
A balanced diet
Keep hydrated
Avoiding over-washing pr irritating the skin
Limiting exposure to the sun and always wearing sunscreen when exposed to UV rays

Here's a list of products that in my opinion are suitable for the above skin types. However, with any product it's always good to test (patch test as well) these as skincare is very personal.

Sunscreens:
For Dry Skin - 
- Purito Comfy Water Sunblock SPF 50+ Pa++++
- Purito Centella Green Level Safe Sun SPF50+ PA++++
- Krave Beauty The Beet Shield
- The Ordinary Mineral UV Filters SPF Antioxidants

For Combo/Oily Skin - 
- CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion with Sunscreen
- Paula’s Choice Hydralight Shine-Free Mineral Complex SPF30

Cleansing Oils/Balms:
- Rohto Mentholatum - Hada Labo Gokujyun Oil Cleansing
- Then I Met You - Living Cleansing Balm
- Simple Cleansing Oil
- Isntree Micellar Melting Cleansing Oil 
- Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm

Cleansers:
- COSRX - Low PH Good Morning Gel Cleanser
- Simple Water Boost Facial Cleanser Gel Wash
- CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
- CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser
- Youth To The People Superfood Cleanser
- Krave Beauty Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser

Moisturisers:
- Paula’s Choice Water-Infusing Electrolyte Moisturiser
- CeraVe PM Facial Moisturising Lotion
- Biossance Squalane + Probiotic Gel Moisturiser
- Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream Facial Moisturisers (DE Protini alternative)
- The Ordinary’s Natural Moisturising Factors + HA

Exfoliants:
- The Ordinary's 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension
- The Ordinary's 10% Lactic Acid Solution
- The Ordinary's 5% Lactic Acid Solution
- The Ordinary's 2% Salicylic Acid Solution or Mask
- Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid, Gel or Lotion
- Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Pore Purifier
- Paula’s Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA
- Facetheory Porebright N10 Serum
- The Ordinary's 30% AHA + 2% BHA Peel

Serums:
- Paula’s Choice Clinical Niacinamide 10-20% Treatment - Though I would work up to the 20% with a 10% first
- The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG
- The Ordinary's 10% Niacinamide + 2% Zinc - Will help balance oil production, brighten and soothe skin
- The Ordinary's Buffet
- The Ordinary's Granactive Retinol Emulsion


I hope this helps some of you decide how to approach any acne you may be experiencing. 

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