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Combining Active Ingredients - What Can And Can't I Combine


A very common question is what actives can, and can't be combined?

There are so many actives around these days and at some point you end up scratching your head about what you can and can't combine when it comes to some of these ingredients.

When it comes to combining actives some factors to consider are tolerance, sensitivity levels and chemical interactions. Personally I would avoid combining actives unless you’re treating something specific like pigmentation/acne/etc, are well acclimated to actives (though still be cautious) and/or have been prescribed a combination of one, or more of the below actives.  

I’ve been prescribed a few compounded serums containing a few of the below actives to treat some hyper-pigmentation. While my skin is not easily irritated this definitely was a shock but also manageable when prepared. Once you’ve built a tolerance to these ingredients (and do not have sensitivity issues) you can look at combining them strategically to get the benefits with minimal irritation.

I thought I’d put some info on how some actives can be used based on studies and my own personal experience. However, this really depends on your own skin and what you’re trying to achieve. try to test combining ingredients in an inconspicuous area. 

Niacinamide: Works by giving our cells the energy to carry out their functions. Treats a wide range of concerns, including pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, oily skin, large pores, redness, dryness, sallowness and a weakened skin barrier.  It has virtually no side effects and is generally well-tolerated. 
  • If combined with L-Ascorbic Acid is still effective for skincare. However, it can convert to Niacin which causes flushing of the skin which is why it’s better to look for products that formulated with the 2 together, or a Vitamin C derivative like MAP, AG or SAP. The reason for this is LAA needs to be in a formula with a low pH of 3.5, but Niacinamide would raise that pH up closer to the 4.5-5 range without further adjustments which is why you’re safer with a product formulated with both for stability or use a Vitamin C derivative. 
  • Niacinamide and Retinol can help decrease retinol irritation in addition to the added barrier function benefit. 
  • Niacinamide and AHA/BHA’s - Combining these 2 can change the PH of the acids making them less effective and/or causing niacin flush
Retinol/Retinoids are derivatives of the A vitamins that are most commonly used for acne and psoriasis. They are also useful for photoaging, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. Scarring may be improved because of their ability to promote new collagen formation and so improve the appearance of hypertrophic scars.
  • Retinol & AHA/BHA’s While Retinoids work more like a peel than AHA/BHA’s, these all increase cell turnover in their own way. It’s not recommended to use them together in the same application. However, there are no studies to support that either inactivate each other or impacts it’s effectiveness. It’s more related to sensitivity/irritation issues.
  • L-ascorbic + Retinol Retinol PH needs to be at a higher level (pH~5.5) which doesn’t go well with L-ascorbic’s needs for a pH of 3.5. Opting for a Vitamin C derivative can provide the same benefit as LAA when paired with Retinoids with much less risk of irritation. 
Vitamin C:  is a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals. Because of its antioxidant properties, vitamin C aids in your skin's natural regeneration process, which helps your body repair damaged skin cells.
  • AHA/BHA & L-ascorbic acid These work around the same pH level and can be layered but there is a risk of irritation. A product that’s formulated with these ingredients would be a safer option. If you wish to layer them it’s best to combine in the PM and give 20-30 mins between application of each active. 
Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a substance found naturally in our skin that holds water and helps keep it hydrated and plump. The molecule holds a thousand times its weight in water to not only retain all that moisture in our skin, but also prevent all that moisture from evaporating into the air.
  • Can be used with any of the above actives
Alpha Arbutin: A natural skin lightening agent that works by slowly releasing hydroquinone through hydrolysis, which in turn blocks Tyrosinase activity and reduces the skin's melanin (pigmentation) production. 
  • It can be used to boost the brightening of Vitamin C, Retinol, Niacinamide. If using with AHA/BHA’s is ok in low concentrations but still may cause irritation
If there are some less common ingredients that you would like information on what can be combined with, pop a comment below and I’ll include these in future posts. 

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