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How To Introduce Retinol's/Retinoids Using "The Sandwich Method"

How to introduce Retinoids while minimising the more common side effects.

Anyone who is about to introduce Retinoids into their routine is aware of some of the more common side effects like dryness of skin, peeling, etc. It seems there's a slight misconception that you shouldn't be using retinol at a young age. However, if you're looking to address any of the following issues then a Retinol/Retinoid product may be something to consider as it can assist with: Anti Ageing, Scarring, Uneven Texture, Breakouts, Acne and various forms of Pigmentation. 

These ingredients can be tricky as far as irritation goes as unlike some actives/acids like Vitamin C(L-Ascorbic Acid)/AHA/BHA's where the irritation van be felt relatively immediately. Retinol's/Retinoids can have a delayed effect of up to a few days before you realise "Um I think I've overdone it just a bit". There are ways to avoid or if you have very sensitive skin minimise this. A good option is to use the sandwich method which many dermatologists, aestheticians and other skincare experts recommend. Dr Dray talks about this on YT if you want more info and demonstrations as to how this is exactly done.

The abbreviated version is:
- Layer emollient based product like a thick hydrating serum (a good HA product is ideal for those with true oily acne-prone skin) or lightweight moisturiser (if you're more normal combo or dry) after cleansing and toning (toning is an optional step of course). 
- Allow this to settle so there is no dampness left on the skin.
- Apply your Retinol/Retinoid and allow to sit for a further 5-10mins
- Follow up with another light layer of moisturiser (if you used a serum still follow up with a moisturiser).

A good trick is to apply a balm (something like La Roche Posay's Cicaplast Baume) around the orbital bone area including eyebrows, the mouth and lips and sides of nostrils. These areas you should try to avoid when applying your Retinol/Retinoid as the product will migrate anyway so it's better to buffer the sections you don't want to get the product in.

It's always good to introduce any active slowly. Start once a week in the evening using this method. Depending on the issue your targeting it can vary how much you need and which product to use. Retinol's are good for superficial issues like anti-ageing, minor texture and pigmentation issues. If it's something that goes a bit deeper into the layers of the skin you may see more dramatic results with a Retinoid (like Tretinoin). 

For general anti-ageing purposes 1-3 times is sufficient in addition to an existing routine that contains an SPF.

For scarring and uneven texture b between 3-5 weeks would be the aim there until improvement occurs then reduce frequency. Some products for this is Paula's choice Skin Recover Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol or The Ordinary's Granactive Emulsion.

If treating something like PIH or Melasma the goal would be between 3-5 nights for PIH and potentially 5-7 nights for Melasma (for the initial period until this had been reduced then the frequency of use would also be reduced).  For these types of conditions, you may see more effective results from a prescription Retinoid. 

With this active the goal is to treat the issue and reduce use or even take breaks where possible, the reintroduce to maintain results achieved. Hope this helps some introducing this ingredient into your routine.

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