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Which Chemical Exfoliant Is Best Suited For Your Skin Type


So I thought we could talk about all things exfoliants today, both physical and chemical. Most seem to be aware about the risks of physical exfoliants 

Chemical exfoliants: Companies like The Ordinary, Inkey List, etc finally making it easy to access products that used to cost significantly more for similar ingredients. However, I’ve noticed this also makes it very easy to purchase and use too many actives too quickly, and/or at too high concentrations intolerable for skin types that are used to these concentration/combinations let alone someone who is introducing these for the first time. By increasing the concentration of frequency you may see a visible difference initially for a short time but will likely lead to some irritation in the long run. I’ve put some info on how to introduce these while minimising the risk of over exfoliation. 

AHA's (or Alpha Hydroxy Acids):
Are primarily used for mild hyperpigmentation like age spots, melasma, and scars, enlarged pores, fine lines and surface wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Alpha hydroxy acids break the bonds between skin cells and helps speed up exfoliation, it can also open up or loosen clogged comedones that are at or near the surface of your skin and address hyperpigmentation. When introducing an AHA its best to start of with a milder version from the list below and work your way up to the more potent options and higher concentrations.  I’ve listed the most commonly used AHA’s from the most potent to the least:
- Glycolic Acid
- Lactic Acid
- Mandelic Acid
- Malic Acid
- Tartaric Acid
- Citric Acid - Use this with caution as it can be an irritant for ouse individuals 

Some recommendations of AHA focused products are:
- The Ordinary's 5-10% Lactic Acid Solution
- The Ordinary's 10% Mandelic Acid

BHA's (Beta Hydroxy Acids:
These are primarily used for acne, congestion and sun damage. These ingredients go deep into your hair follicles to dry out excess oils and dead skin cells to unclog your pores. BHA's are most suitable for combination to oily skin. Lower concentrations may be used to help calm sensitive skin. You may also have more success with BHA's if you wanted to reduce rosacea-related redness. Some examples are:
- Salicylic Acid 
There are also derivatives of salicylic acid-like 
- Salicylate
- Betaine Salicylate
- Sodium Salicylate.
- Citric Acid - While primarily classified as an AHA, some formulations of citric acid are BHA's, too. Rather than even out your skin’s PH levels, this type of citric acid is primarily used to dry out excess sebum and clean out dead skin cells deep in your pores. 
Other less common forms of BHA include:
- Willow Bark Extract
- Beta Hydroxybutanoic Acid
- Tropic Acid, and Trethocanic Acid.

Some recommendations of BHA focused products are:
- Cosrx Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol Toner
- Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid, Gel or Lotion or The Ordinary's 2% Salicylic Acid - Solution or Mask
- Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Pore Purifier
- Paula’s Choice Resist Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% Bha


Azelaic Acid - This is neither an AHA or a BHA, it is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. It has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, which make it effective in the treatment of skin conditions like acne and rosacea that offers many of the same benefits of an AHA like improvement in hyperpigmentation, inflammation, acne, and skin texture like a BHA. Many people find that this works like a BHA amplified but at lower doses/percentages than BHA. It is also well suited fo sensitive/rosacea skin types.
Some recommendations of Azelaic Acid focused products are:
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension
The Ordinary's 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension 


If using any of the above acids it’s also good to not combine separate products containing these in the same application. Applying these on separate days would be a safer option or look for a product formulated with both as this has been ph balanced to minimise the risk of irritation (but you still want to work from the lowest % upwards). If you experience any redness, long-lasting sensations like tingling, burning, peeling this is a good indication the formula is too potent or has been used too frequently. You can reduce the frequency to see if this is the cause. Should the irritation persist this indicates the product may be at too high of a concentration. It’s always good to patch test. I do behind my ear as this is a good indication of what may occur on your face but less visible. 

An option to also support the skin while exfoliating is to use other ingredients that support your skin barrier during the exfoliation process. Some examples are Niacinamide, Zinc, Green Tea, Marine Algae’s, Colloidal Oatmeal Aloe Vera, Centella  and Panthenol. These are fantastic skin soothing agents to look for in serums and your other core routine (cleanser, toners, and moisturisers). 

Physical Exfoliants: While I’m not a fan of these personally as these can cause micro-tears in the skin which can break capillaries, enlarge pores, and doesn’t provide an even exfoliation. Better products are coming out that are better formulated with biodegradable materials. If you prefer to use these types of exfoliants there are some options like Rice Enzyme Powders (Tatcha, Dermalogica, etc). There are also now formulations using more skin focused ingredients like Jojoba Beads, Vitamin C Particles as alternatives to the standard Micro Beads.


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