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Under Eye Circles, Bags, Fine Lines and Wrinkles! - We've All Had Them, But How Do We Fix Them?


The dreaded baggage that we all sometimes have to carry!

Under-eye bags and dark circles. There are two primary causes for this beyond lifestyle/internal factors. The first is the pigmentation of the skin. The second is thin skin, or skin that has lost fat pads show veins underneath the eye area. 

A popular test used by Skincare experts, to determine which category you fall into first take your skin under the eye, and gently lift it up. When you lift it up, look at what happens to the colour of the skin in the dark circle area.

When you lift it up, if all of sudden comes back to normal colour, it’s because the skin is too thin and more transparent.
If you lift up off the skin’s structure and the pigmentation does not change/it stays brown, it’s telling you that pigmentation is the primary problem. 

If it's pigmentation related, then using ingredients that will brighten the area and inhibit melanin production would be more beneficial. I've put a list of the more common brightening agents working from the more gentle to the more potent. 

Licorice extract - has shown to be effective in inhibiting the production of melanin and brightening skin. 

Vitamin C derivatives and Niacinamide - have shown some mild brightening effects but is better combined with other actives to produce significant results for deeper pigment issues.

Arbutin - There are two forms of Arbutin, Alpha/Beta Arbutin. Studies have shown that Alpha Arbutin is more stable/effective than its beta form. It has a similar function to Hydroquinone but is naturally derived agent extracted from bearberry, cranberries, blueberries, wheat, and pears. Arbutin is broken down into glucose and a natural form of hydroquinone. it’s also less irritating to skin than directly applied synthetic hydroquinone.

Tranexamic Acid - An uncommon ingredient that’s an amino acid (you may be familiar with its other name Lysine).It functions similarly to Arbutin, can be used by all skin types and is one fo the few ingredients recommended for melasma. 

Encapsulated Retinol - This is a Gentle option for under the area area to both firm and brightening the area.

Hydroquinone - Considered the gold standard to treat pigmentation. This is a synthetic lightening agent that is effective at inhibiting the production of melanocytes which results in more even tone over time. This best suited to treat fairer skin tones. Unfortunately there are a few side effects associated with sensitivity/irritation, hyper-pigmentation (yup), and on rare occasions In rare cases has caused a condition called ochronosis (papules and bluish-black pigmentation). This can occur after prolonged daily use which is why products containing this shouldn’t be used for an extended period. Sensitive prone skin usually doesn't tolerate this well, or at all.

For more serious types of pigmentation its important to have an experienced dermatologist/ doctor analyze your skin as they can correctly diagnose the type you have and recommend a more bespoke treatments that designed specifically for your skin.

If the colour under your eyes disappeared when pinching the skin. The issue is less pigment-related, and related to thinning of the skin under your eyes. This becomes more prominent when skin loses collagen/elastin as we age. 

If you have a loss of firmness in the skin under your eyes, then collagen-building products would be more beneficial for this scenario. The same treatments can be utilised to treat fine lines, and even deeper wrinkles. But I think it's good to set yourself to a realistic expectation of what results can be achieved with topical products. 

Vitamin C, and it's derivatives, can help to plump the skin and increase collagen production. 

Peptides are said to have some plumping properties.

However, to really plump the skin Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate, and other humectant based formulas are a great option as it works by plumping the skin to lift it off the structures beneath. 



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